Enjoying the Nature that surrounds Cali: Rio Pance
Sunset at Rio Pance
Something super unique about Cali is that despite being a hustling, bustling big city, there are many parts that are super green, and the entire city is surrounded by nature. In the south of the city, there is a river called Pance that flows from the Farallones mountains that is a popular element of the beautiful natural landscape. Taking a break from the city and escaping into la naturaleza at Rio Pance is a key part of the Cali experience that I’ve been enjoying and highly recommend.
View of the river upstream of entrance #4
Pance is a long river with many points of access, and the city of Cali has created an Ecoparque along a section of the river where you can take a dip in the refreshing water, eat typical Valluna treats, walk along a nature trail, and more. Caleños often go to Pance on the weekend to parchar (hang out) with family and friends and to have a picnic, relax, read, or cook a traditional chicken, vegetable, and tuber soup called sancocho de gallina, en leña, the traditional way of cooking over an open-air woodfire (at specific, designated areas along the river).
Entrada 2
The Ecoparque, called Pance Mágico, has 4 entrances, with the first entrance being closest to Cali and the fourth entrance being furthest away. The walking trail that I mentioned before runs along the river and curves away into the forest at entrance 4. When I go to Pance, I usually enter at entrance 2, and there you’ll find a few small shops selling mecatos (colombian snacks), bathrooms, changing rooms, and a restaurant called Gallo de Oro. I usually bring my own snacks, but I once bought an oblea (a traditional Colombian sweet) at one of the stands leading down to the river there, and it was the best I've ever eaten in Colombia. 10/10 recommend trying the obleas when you visit!
The view from the footbridge the first time I went to Pance
After bypassing the shops and restaurant at entrance 2, there is a small footbridge to cross to the other side of the river to a section of the walking trail that allows you to go further up or downstream alongside the river. The first time I went to Pance was a puente, a national three-day holiday weekend here in Colombia, and from the bridge, I could see that truly all of Cali had made the trip down to the river that day. Generally, if you walk upstream at whichever entrance, you’ll find an area that is quieter and less crowded, and that is what we did that day.
One of the most recent times I went to Pance!
At Pance, the water is shallow, not deep enough to swim, but people often build little pools to sit or stand in using the rocks that line both sides of the river. At some of the higher points of the river, the current is very strong, so you have to be careful not to get washed away, especially after it has rained and the water level is higher than usual.
The strong current!
The water at Pance is ice cold, but when you take the plunge and get your entire body wet, you acclimate, and the water doesn't feel so frigid. The first time I visited Pance, it was super hot, so the cold water was jarring but refreshing. I dipped my feet in, sat down in one of the little rock pools, got some water on my arms and on my back, then laid back on the rocks and let the current wash over me. It felt wonderful.
I would say I’m a beach girl rather than a river girl, but I was pleasantly surprised at how much I enjoyed the experience of visiting Pance for the first time and every other time after that. I am always blown away by the beauty and such an abrupt change of scenery that lies just 30 minutes outside of the city. Cali is a city muy rumbera, and salsa is likely the first thing that comes to mind when people think of it, but aside from enjoying la rumba, I think a trip to Rio Pance is another essential part of the Cali experience that cannot be missed!
On the nature trail
I hope I’ve convinced you to take a trip to Pance, and if you take my advice, here is a little packing list for you:
Firstly, wear your bathing suit underneath your clothes
Then pack
Underwear to change into for the ride back to the city
Flip flops, water shoes, or other shoes that can get wet
Towel for sitting on and drying off
Water
Snacks (I like to take plantain chips and some type of fruit)
Mosquito repellent (picaridin-based lotions work wayyyy better than the sprays)
Sunscreen
Sunglasses
Hat
Bag for wet clothes
Toiletries of choice- wipes, lotion, deodorant, etc
A little bit of cash
A note on time & transport:
The most straight-forward method to get to Pance if you don’t have your own private transportation is to order a ride via Uber or Didi (a Colombian ride-sharing app similar to Uber) to “Ecoparque Rio Pance.” I already live in the south of Cali, so Pance is a short 30-minute trip just outside of the city for me, but it can be closer to 45 minutes or an hour if you’re coming from the north of the city, and depending on the time of day.
I usually go to Pance in the afternoon around 2 or 3pm because the sun isn’t as strong at that time, and I stay until around 5:30 or 6pm because I’m a sucker for sunsets, but I must warn that each and every time I’ve had a hard time getting back to the city at that time! I either didn't have cellphone signal, or all the taxis were already occupied, or all the buses were already full. It's kind of comical. Something always worked out in the end, but people definitely recommend getting to Pance before 8 or 9am and heading back to the city before 3pm to avoid the 5pm afternoon traffic and lack of transportation options!
I hope this has been helpful and that if you find yourself in Cali, you take advantage of the greenery that makes this city so unique. Happy exploring!
